I
recently saw an article in the New York Post (hardly a stellar
reference, but it came up in a Google alert) which was headlined “Wall Street
finance bros have found their newest flex—but it’s dividing one of the Hampton’s
oldest communities.” As I read it, I
was forced to think back on the history and trajectory of offshore sport
fishing, and on how much things change, while remaining, in some ways, the
same.
The article opened with the words,
“A 300-pound tuna fish doesn’t care how much your house
costs. And on the ocean, there are no
VIP tables or name-dropping.
“As the offshore tuna season reaches its peak at Montauk, Long
Island, a wave of Wall Street thrill-seekers, million-dollar sportfishing boats
and first-time charter anglers are pouring into one of the East Coast’s oldest fishing
communities.
“For generations, the only people who fished tuna were the
ones whose lives revolved around the water.
“Now these veteran anglers are begrudgingly sharing the
beloved recreational sport of deep-water fishing for hard-fighting, giant and
prized tuna fish with city slickers who only recently learned about the big
game pursuit thanks to social media and TV.”
There are a lot of things wrong with that paragraph,
beginning with the notion that Montauk is “one of the East Coast’s oldest
fishing communities.” While some fishing
always took place there, the Montauk/Easthampton area was dominated by
agriculture, particularly cattle ranches, through much of its early history. It’s remote location made it difficult to
transport fish to market until 1895, when a new branch of the Long Island Rail
Road connected the village to New York City, and its coastline provided dubious
shelter for vessels until 1926, when real estate developer Carl G. Fisher, who
had purchased 10,000 acres of Montauk land, blasted through the thin strip of
coastline that separated what was then freshwater Lake Montauk from Block
Island Sound, and created the harbor that now shelters Montauk’s fishing fleet.
Compared to ports in New England—the
Massachusetts Bay Colony, for example, was exporting fish to Europe and the
West Indies well before the Revolutionary War—that makes Montauk a relative
newcomer as far as fishing communities go.
But where the New York Post piece really goes off the
rails is when it says that “for generations, the only people who fished tuna
were those whose lives revolved around the water,” and its suggestion that “the
beloved recreational sport of deep-water fishing for hard-fighting, giant and
prized tuna fish” being enjoyed by “city slickers” is something new.
In fact, offshore sport fishing has always been the pursuit
of well-heeled individuals who could afford the price of ocean-capable boats,
hired captains and crews, and the travel needed to get where the fish are. It has only been in relatively recent times—say,
the last 50 years or so—that offshore fishing became readily accessible to
people of more modest means, as advances in boat and engine technology allowed
manufacturers to build less expensive, outboard-powered boats that were
nonetheless capable of carrying fishermen to productive deep waters.
“The roots of modern big-game fishing run straight back to
Catalina Island [California] in the early 1900s…
“Rod and reel designs improved rapidly. Captains learned how to handle their boats
around a hooked fish. Anglers figured
out through hard experience what worked and what didn’t—and crucially, they
wrote it down. Catches were weighed,
measured, photographed, and documented.
What could have been forgotten became the foundation for something
lasting. Catalina Island is home to the
Avalon Tuna Club, one of the oldest and most influential institutions in the
sport.
“Zane Gray [a California dentist who made his fortune writing
pulp novels about the American West], an active member of the Avalon Tuna Club
and once served as vice president, was the person who related that foundation
to a wider audience. His vivid account
of bluefin battles reached readers throughout the country who had never been
near salt water, and they made the sport feel worth aspiring to. Grey didn’t just write about catching fish;
he captured the physicality of it, the hourslong battles against powerful
animals, the exhaustion, the exhilaration.
He made anglers look like athletes, which, honestly, they were.”
At the birth of the
offshore sport, wealthy anglers, inspired by writing in the print media of the
day, became interested in fishing for tuna and other offshore species. No, they weren’t necessarily “finance bros,”
although some probably did have Wall Street connections, and they learned about
fishing for bluefin by reading about it, rather than by viewing “social media
and TV”. But, more than a century ago,
there were already “city slickers” entering the fishery; the new anglers
described in the Post article were merely new pilgrims following a trail
first laid down many decades ago.
Offshore fishing came to Montauk soon after Montauk Lake was
opened up to the sea, with the Montauk Yacht Club being built soon after. Even before the Second World War, wealthy
angler-authors such as S.
Kip Farrington, who entered his family’s stock brokerage firm at the age of 16,
and Van Campen Heilner,
born into a family made wealthy by coal mines, fished Montauk waters.
The “finance bros” have been catching tuna at Montauk for a
very long time.
But what they did with those tuna—and the other fish that
they caught—wasn’t completely clear.
Some of them might have ended up in the Yacht Club’s
kitchen, although giant bluefin weren’t considered good eating back then, and
might just as well have ended up in a landfill or dumped out at sea after being
weighed and taken down from the scales.
It’s also quite likely that a lot of fish ended up with the boats’
crews, who could have kept them for personal consumption, or sold them for
whatever the market might pay. The
historical record isn’t too clear about that.
But one thing that was pretty clear was that the anglers
didn’t feel the need to sell fish for their own account; they were already
quite wealthy, and certainly didn’t have to sell fish for whatever pennies they
might bring.
That has changed since the old days, for today, even the
folks in the “million-dollar sportfishing boats” mentioned by the Post
will take fish to market, for whatever value they might bring. That was mentioned in the Post
article, when it noted that
“’A lot of these guys are millionaires, and they come out and
catch fish,” Montauk-based commercial fish dealer Bryan Gosman, 53, told The
Post.
“Among longtime commercial fishermen, Gosman said there’s an
unspoken understanding: the new sportfishing boom has changed the culture.
“’Commercial guys get irritated because it does affect the
market of fish. They think sportfishing
guys don’t take good care of the fish; it becomes performative,’ he added. ‘The picture is more important.’
“’They’re multi-millionaires.
The $4,000 check they get for a fish doesn’t even matter.’
“The New York fishing market as a whole is valued at around
$42 million, and a single top-quality 1,000 pound tuna can fetch fishermen up
to $10,000. An influx of new era banker
fishermen who aren’t interested in quality or profit could significant [sic]
dent longtime family businesses, for whom this is their only income stream.”
Such blurring of the lines between commercial and
recreational fishermen just wasn’t something that happened in the early days of
offshore sport fishing.
Another big difference is that, as offshore game fishing
became more popular, the pioneers tried to make it into a legitimate sport, in
which anglers competed on a more-or-less even basis. As the Marlin article noted,
“As the sport grew, so did the ambition—and the chaos. Without standardized rules, the concept of a
fishing record became increasingly meaningless.
Anglers were using heavier lines and bigger reels, and making claims
that couldn’t be verified or fairly compared.
The achievements were real, but the framework to verify them didn’t
exist yet.
“That changed in 1939 when Michael Lerner founded the
International Game Fish Association (IGFA).
His goal wasn’t to control the sport; it was to protect what achievement
in the sport actually meant…If the rules were the same everywhere, then the
only variable that mattered was the skill of the angler.
“What the IGFA gave fishermen was something more valuable
than a record book. When you held an
IGFA record, you knew exactly what it took to earn it, and so did everyone
else. Over time, the IGFA evolved far
beyond a regulatory body. It became the
global conscience of sport fishing, a persistent reminder that how you
catch a fish is just as important as having caught it at all. [emphasis added]”
There are other rules, too, all designed to make the battle between
man and fish something approaching a fair fight, and making it easier to gauge
anglers’ achievements.
That, too, is something that makes this modern era different
from what went before. While the IGFA’s
rules still govern world records, and are used as the standard of conduct in
many, probably most, major fishing tournaments, they are more and more ignored
by the new generation of offshore anglers.
In the bluefin tuna fishery, fighting a big fish from a rod
still stuck in a holder—effectively making the fish fight the boat, not the
angler, which was something formerly done only by commercial fishermen—has become
standard operating procedure for many anglers.
One charter
boat captain even has a video describing the process.
“…I constantly wanna [sic] be pulling that fish
towards the boat because we don’t take the rod out of the rod holder so that’s
why I’m gonna keep the [boat in] gear and you guys shouldn’t either because you’re
gonna be using at least 130 130 [sic] pounds Spectra or braided line if
you will. You guys are gonna be using at
least that much because there’s no reason to fish ‘em any less. Then, if you decide that you need to hold the
pole cuz [sic] it’s gonna make you a better person, good luck with
that. I hope that everything works out
fine because you’re gonna be using thirty to forty pounds of drag and you’re
gonna be holding the pole. Use
your boat it’s way easier. It’s
all about holding the fish up by the tail.
It’s not about the battle.
Nobody cares that it took you 3 hours and but if you’re a he man and you
need to get in there and battle with the fish so you’re sore for the rest of
the week. Go right ahead and put a
harness on and fight that sucker. The
way we do it, we keep the rod in the gunnel…
[emphasis added]”
Basically, that captain is doing is doing his best to take
the “sport” out of sportfishing, taking a sport that, at it’s core, is
all “about the battle” and turning it into an exercise in which the only thing
that matters is having a dead fish in the cockpit and holding up the tail for
what will presumably be photos to be shared across social media platforms. It’s kind of equivalent to starting a
marathon, then after joggoing for 50 yards or a little more, taking a cab to
the finish line before declaring that you “ran” the race.
Such thinking makes a mockery out of Ernest
Hemingway’s famous words, describing a fight with a bluefin tuna:
“It is a back-sickening, sinew-straining, man-sized job even
with a rod that looks like a hoe handle.
But if you land a big tuna after a six-hour fight, fight him man against
fish until your muscles are nauseated with the unending strain, and finally
bring him up alongside the boat, green-blue and silver in the lazy ocean, you
will be purified and able to enter unabashed into the presence of the very
elder gods, and they will make you welcome.”
It’s hard to see how letting the boat fight the fish and
just holding it up by the tail for photos might seem rewarding.
And, by the way, using “thirty to
forty pounds of drag” while fighting a fish is not a big deal, despite that
captain’s comments. I turn 72 in a
couple of weeks, and I still use 27 pounds of drag on my 80-pound standups, and
sincerely hope that when I head out tomorrow morning, I’ll find a big thresher
shark—maybe something in the 300-400 pound range—that will drag me around the
cockpit for a couple of hours while I’m harnessed to the rod getting some of my
favorite kind of exercise. (It’s not
impossible that I might even find a nice bluefin, though that’s a lot less
likely.)
But forty pounds of drag, for an
angler fighting a bluefin from a chair, with a good footrest and a bucket
harness, is just no big deal.
Yet recent years have seen many
anglers enter a degraded “sport” where rods never leave their holders, fish are
harpooned, and anglers think nothing of handing off the rod when they get a
little tired, well before their back has been sickened, their sinews strained,
or their muscles nauseated by what should be the sheer joy of the fight.
When the only point of the
exercise is putting a dead fish in the boat, and putting photos up on the Internet,
the essence of sport fishing is lost, as the fish becomes not a respected, if
unwilling, opponent, but merely an object in a self-promotion campaign.
Yet some people still feel the sport’s
original attraction. As the Post
reported,
“’Tuna fishing is oddly addicting,’ one
Hampton Bays-based fisherman told The Post.
That’s why some of those Wall Street guys get a taste for it, and they’re
like, ‘This is so awesome.’’
“’You get out there for like a banker guy
who works in New York City, and you get offshore, and you see 40 whales feeding
with their mouths open, it’s like National Geographic.’”
“’I’ve seen guys get hooked on this sport
in one trip, They caught their first 150
pound tuna, and they were all in, even so far as going to buy a boat,’ veteran
offshore angler Nick Carro told The Post.”
Some things do remain the same.
Bluefin tuna still swim off
Montauk’s shores, and the possibility of fishing for, and perhaps even
catching, one of those great fish is still being communicated to the public,
even if electronic media has largely replaced the traditional paper and ink. Although the fish are now more accessible to
the public than they were when Montauk Inlet was new, and the fishery is no
longer the exclusive province of millionaires, offshore fishing is still the
kind of expensive pastime that has always attracted a disproportionate number
of wealthy adherents; “finance bros” have been in the fishery since its very
first days.
And when an angler hooks up, whether
that angler is a carpenter, a lawyer, or a hedge fund manager, those bluefin will
still pull hard, and provide the same mental and physical challenges that they
did a century ago.
Assuming, of course, that the
angler is willing to accept the challenge of fighting a big fish one-on-one, with
the rod out of the holder and no harpoon on board.
The fact that many of today’s
anglers are not is, perhaps, the biggest difference between then and now.
And the most unfortunate.
Because if an angler seeks sport,
how you catch a fish is just as important as having
caught it at all.
No comments:
Post a Comment