I write about striped bass quite often, perhaps more than I
do about anything else, although red snapper is also a frequent topic. There are also fish that I don’t write about
at all.
Recently, I started thinking about why that is. My thoughts were spurred by reports that a
single angler, fishing in my local waters, killed over 200 blowfish over the
course of just two trips onto Great South Bay.
People complain about the way striped bass and red snapper
are managed, but maybe it’s time to complain about how blowfish, and some other
species, aren’t managed at all.
Blowfish, for anyone not familiar with the name, are more
properly called northern
puffer or, if you’re a biologist, Sphoeroides
maculatus. Unlike many of the puffer
tribe, blowfish have organs that are only trivially toxic; no matter how badly
they might be prepared, blowfish will never give anyone a numb-lipped fugu
high, and eating the flesh will never, under any circumstances, prove fatal.
On the other hand, they taste very good, and are
ridiculously easy to
clean. Make one cut behind the head,
shuck the meat out of its skin, and you end up with two boneless fillets,
separated by a single, fused length of vertebrae.
If you wanted to call them the perfect saltwater panfish,
you won’t get an argument from me. I’ve
been eating—and cleaning—blowfish since I was about six years old.
The problem is, a lot of other people were eating them,
too.
All of the waters abutting New York
were filled with blowfish decades ago, but the fish started to disappear in the
mid-1960s, and became very scarce for much of the time since.
But every now and again, all the stars align just right, and
a big year class erupts in the bay. And
every time one does, it gets wiped out about as soon as it arrives.
Because, as I mentioned, blowfish taste really good. And without any restrictions on harvest…
Anglers go out and catch them by the pailful, and far too
often, they don’t pay much attention to size.
Commercial fishermen pound on them as well, setting pots throughout the
bay, for at $5 per pound (dressed weight), blowfish can generate pretty nice
profits, so long as they last.
People rarely sit down and think about how nice it is to
have a good population of blowfish around.
They’re a great fish for children, easy to catch and
fascinating when they swell up in their typical defensive display. In these days when far too many erstwhile
young anglers abandon the sport because it seems boring and dull compared to
other, electronic distractions, having a fish around that kids actually find
kind of interesting is a big plus.
It’s an even bigger plus for angling-related businesses,
because if kids don’t want to go out on the water, families tend to find
alternate ways to spend their weekends, and such businesses wilt on the vine. Blowfish
provide a sort of gateway into the world of angling that can capture young
imaginations and help to get children interested in the outdoors.
But for that to happen, there must be enough blowfish around.
The same sort of thing can be said for triggerfish.
They’re not a traditional fish of Long Island’s waters. If you read older books, you won’t see them
mentioned at all, as they were considered a strictly southern species. But at some point during the late 20th
Century, triggerfish began to become a fairly regular catch in local waters, and are
really appreciated when fishing for other things is slow.
A few summers ago, fluke fishing was awful, and there wasn’t
much happening offshore. Even bluefish
were scarce. Charter boats were searching for anything that their custom
ers could catch. But some of those charters
took things to extremes; one boat pulled over 150 triggers off the wreck of the
Roda in the course of a single tide.
Sure, triggerfish can be pretty tasty, once you remove their
leathery hides, but that’s still a lot of fish for one boat to take in one
day.
It might not have hurt the population at all, because
triggers come up from the south. I have no idea of how many—if any—survive
the trip home once waters turn cold in late fall.
But taking that many fish off a wreck in one
day will certainly hurt the fishing for the next boat that comes along.
That’s when regulations can help. Even though they might not be needed to
protect the fish stock, they can help to spread the catch out among more
anglers, rather than than letting a few hungry early birds take it all. New York’s original, 14-inch size limit on
summer flounder wasn’t adopted by biologists to protect the spawning stock, but
rather recommended by the party boat industry, to assure that enough fish
remained in the bay to keep their customers interested all summer long.
That was a pretty good idea, and probably ahead of its
time. It would be nice to see more of
that kind of thinking coming from the recreational fishing industry today.
Such precautionary regulations could benefit a lot of fish, maybe even sea
robins.
Once, they were everyone’s nemesis, seen as bait stealers that got in the way while people were fishing for fluke.
Lately, though, more and more anglers have
learned that beneath the sea robin’s spiny and somewhat bizarre exterior lay
fillets of fine white meat, which are prized by French seafood chefs, who refer
to the fish as “gurnard.” Should the trend of eating sea robins
accelerate, harvest could increase sharply, although no one has any idea how
mush fishing pressure the sea robin population can stand.
But perhaps more importantly, despite the fact that sea
robins provide perfectly good food, far too many are wasted by benighted
anglers who still don’t understand that it’s wrong to just toss an unwanted
fish up on the beach and leave it to die.
Placing some regulations on sea robin landings would both
provide a buffer against excessive harvest and lend the fish some protection
against unconscionable waste.
There is no question that state fishery departments in New
York and other coastal states already have plenty to do, and probably lack the
time and resources needed to develop science-based management programs for
blowfish, sea robins or anything else. At
the same time, it would probably be wise to adopt precautionary regulations,
which would help to avert overharvest of any of the less-studied species, and
perhaps help to rebuild those populations which, like blowfish, have already
begun to decline.
I can hear folks scoffing now, saying that such humble fish
aren’t worth our attention.
But the precedent is already set. When oyster toadfish began to disappear from New
York’s bays, due to a newfound popularity in the live fish market and a
resultant spike in commercial harvest, New York adopted regulations
to protect them (for anglers, a 3-fish bag, 10-inch minimum size and a season
that’s closed between May 15 and July 15).
If the lowly toadfish deserves state protection, it’s hard
to argue that blowfish, triggerfish, kingfish and even sea robins should not be
given some protection as well.
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